4-A, 66.6: Hartsel. Dumpy tiny town. Barking dogs and broken glass. Great dinner at Dorothy's Homemade Tamales was a very pleasant surprise. (we read a GDR trip report describing the bar next door as "the worst meal of the trip”). We’ve read that the tap water is unhealthy. I don’t know if it is unhealthy, but the flavor/aroma was so bad we didn’t try to drink it. We were told by a nice couple in town we could camp behind the fire station in the "town park", which was a glass-strewn lot with a locked port-a-potty. We have read that some people successfully camped there and others have been "kicked out". In any case, it is a dismal "park". We camped at mile ~69, 100 yards west of road on flat grassy field - probably on private land but we were outside the fence. The "Hartsel Springs Resort" listed on the ACA map is now a sales facility (ranchette subdivision) and the only people who can stay there are clients. Some people reported that the people in the Harsel Springs Resort office allow you to camp in their parking lot, but the people at the office when we were there were quite snooty and uncooperative when we stopped there to say hello.
4-A, 113: Salida. Very nice town. Absolute Bikes was best shop on the trip. Great dinner at the West End Café. Great milk shake / ice cream shop a block from the laundromat downtown.
4-B, 139.9: we followed the route here and turned right onto FR660. But that route eventually leads to a very rough road with sandy, rocky, hike-a-bike stuff (from ~143.9 to 149.8). We didn't think the rough road was worth it, and we recommend staying on 38A.
4-B, 153.4: Del Norte. Nice little town. We stayed with Gary & Patti Blakley which was great - they were very good company. Lunch at the "Organic Peddler" was tasty, but a bit expensive and small portions. Dinner at the "Country Family" was good. Breakfast at Boogies Cafe was good standard pancakes and eggs.
4-B, 195.9: Stunner USFS campground. The water pump here has no pump handle, and somebody camping there told us it has not worked for years. We got water from other campers.
4-B, 202.3: There's a tiny grocery store in the lodge at Platoro where you can buy staples.
4-B, 23.0: the store/café in Horca is not reliable. They were closed for a couple days when we were there. We talked to a nice elderly lady in the trailer park next to the store, who said that during 2007 season the owner of that store has not been reliable and that it doesn't open on 50% of the days. That unreliable shop is the only service in Horca.
4-B, 32.4: Rendezvous Steakhouse had reasonable steak meal, but very limited hours. (I think they are open Wed-Sunday from 4:30-9:00 PM, but might be wrong).
4-B, 145.5: Abiquiu. Bode's store, the only place to buy food in town, had good selection of food - more extensive than most gas-station stores. Abiquiu Inn has an RV park, but it is just a parking lot and does not have bathrooms or showers (you use the bathrooms in the restaurant area). We got a room at the Inn, which was expensive but convenient. Dinner at the Inn was excellent and expensive - a very good meal. The people at the Inn were very nice. No laundromat at Inn or elsewhere in town.